RENAISSANCE OF THAI RICE
The Renaissance of Thai Rice
In 2009, a pivotal moment marked Thailand's journey in rice cultivation. The world's leading trade publication dedicated to in-depth analysis of the global rice industry, The Rice Trader, bestowed upon Thailand's exquisite Hom Mali variety the prestigious title of the world's best rice at the first ever World Rice Conference held in Cebu, The Philippines. Thailand went on to win again the following year, but then relinquished its top spot to Myanmar’s fragrant Pearl Paw San rice in 2011.
In 2012, 2013 & 2014, the gong went to Cambodia’s Pkha Romdoul variety and since then, Cambodia and Thailand have been locked in a head-to-head battle over ‘bragging rights’. A surprise winner in 2015 saw the United States win with their California Calrose rice, before Thailand reclaimed top spot in 2016 & 2017.In 2020, Thailand was again bestowed with the owner of World’s Best Rice. This honour was a testament to the nation's diligent efforts in reviving its rice quality, after a hiatus caused by hasty cultivation practices from a previous pledging scheme that compromised on quality. This phase saw Thailand accepting every grain, irrespective of its quality, leading to a downturn in the global standing of Thai rice, however, with a renewed emphasis on prioritising quality over quantity, Thailand reclaimed its title, a testament to its resilience and dedication to the craft.They won it again the following year.The World Rice Conference has now been held 14 times and Thailand has won first prize 7 times and Cambodia 5, making them the clear front-runners in rice production. The 2023 awards will again be held in Cebu, The Philippines November 28-30 and we wish Thailand the best of luck in reclaiming top spot.
Rice Fields
The majestic rice fields of Thailand are more than just agricultural terrains; they are symbols of an age-old legacy, where nature's magnificence merges seamlessly with the perseverance of local farmers. These verdant expanses are where rigorous processes unfurl - from the nurturing of the soil to the eventual harvest that graces dining tables worldwide. Such is the significance of rice in Thailand that it is not merely an economic asset, but a deep-rooted part of the nation's identity and cultural fabric.
Taking a stroll through these lush paddies is akin to a journey through time. As the cacophony of city life dwindles, one is enveloped by the serenity of nature, punctuated only by the gentle rustling of leaves and the movements of farmers tending to their crops. These vast expanses are not just fields; they are living chronicles of Thailand's rich history, narrating tales of dedication, passion and the timeless bond between man and nature.
Krabue Buffalo
The prosperity of Thailand's agricultural sector was built upon the sturdy shoulders of the Krabue Buffalo. Indigenous to the Kingdom of Thailand, this water buffalo breed, also recognised as the Siamese buffalo, has intertwined its fate with that of the farmers, shouldering the toilsome tasks of ploughing fields and aiding in the planting and harvesting of rice. In days gone by, the number of these robust creatures under a family’s care symbolised not merely a means to efficient farming but also a status of wealth and prosperity. Yet, even as machines and motorised ploughs subtly replace their physical burdens, the buffalo perpetually remains embedded in the cultural and spiritual tapestry of Thai farming.
At Feast Thailand, we run our Plough To Plate: A Rice Journey tour, where guests get up close and personal with two working buffalo, one a very valuable pink buffalo.
Hooves and Harvest: The Wing Kwai Festival
The Wing Kwai festival is a harmonious blend of religious reverence and cultural celebration. It unfolds in Chonburi with gratitude and respect towards these creatures. This annual celebration, tracing its roots back to the 1800s, takes place towards the end of October, heralding the commencement of official rice cultivation following the monsoon period. The festival resonates with the heartfelt thankfulness of farmers towards the buffaloes, recognising their unwavering service in the fields. Tedmahachart is a ceremony which takes place at Wat Yai Intharam, where farmers, adorned with beautifully prepared carts, present offerings of rice, coconut, betel nut, sugar cane and banana to the monks, seeking blessings for the well-being of their families and, more importantly, their buffaloes.
In a spirited manifestation of this rich tradition, over 60 buffaloes engage in a thrilling race along a 200-meter dirt track in the Napa sub-district of Chonburi province, commemorating and honouring their historical role in rice farming. Although technological advancements have introduced tractors and motorised ploughs into the contemporary agricultural landscape, the buffalo continues to sustain its relevancy and legacy in Thai farming and culture. The buffalo, in its might and gentleness, symbolises a resilient, unfading echo of Thailand’s agricultural and cultural heritage, perpetuating a bond that traverses beyond mere farming, nestling itself into the heart of tradition, respect and communal celebration.
Rice Dehusking
Thailand’s rice fields yield grains which embark on a meticulous journey before gracing our dining tables. One crucial stage in this voyage is dehusking, or dehulling, which refers to the process of separating the rice from its hard outer shell, or husk. Though the husk itself is devoid of nutritional value for human consumption, it conversely emerges fruitful in various other domains, such as serving as building material, fertiliser, or even as a fuel source.
Initially, the ancient method of winnowing was widely employed in the realm of dehusking. This practice utilises the elemental force of the wind to separate the lightweight husks from the precious grains. As the whole rice are shaken in the basket and then tossed into the air, the breeze carries away the husks and the rice grains fall back to the basket.
Technological Advances
As time progressed, a transformation in technique was witnessed with the introduction of a large wooden pestle and mortar, rendering a more robust touch to the dehusking process. After this process, it may still be necessary to winnow the remaining rice.
In a subsequent era, stone rice mills became the torchbearers of dehusking. Their structured design featured a top cylindrical stone atop another more flat, stationary stone. The cylindrical stone is adjoined with a handle for rotating and a channel for introducing the rice. As the cylinder spins, it mildly grinds the rice, facilitating the separation of the husk and the nourishing grain. Once again winnowing may need to be the last step in this process.
Presently, machinery predominantly governs the dehusking landscape, though it often comes at a steep financial cost and sometimes lacks the precision of traditional, manual methods.
At Feast Thailand, we run our Plough To Plate: A Rice Journey tour, where guests participate in all 3 methods of rice dehusking.
Khanom Khrok ขนมครก
Amidst the myriad of dessert flavours in Thai cuisine, Khanom Khrok stands tall as a traditional delight, captivating taste buds with both its sweet and savoury versions. Often enjoyed as a breakfast snack, this coconut pudding embodies the rich essence of coconut milk, sugar and rice flour.
Prepared with a distinctive methodology, it employs a unique cast-iron pan featuring individual indents, traditionally placed over a charcoal fire, though modern adaptations now often use gas burners. The batter, poured from a kettle, crisps up on the pan, yielding a texture that's soft on the top while remaining slightly firm below. Variations abound in contemporary renditions, featuring crispy edges and a smorgasbord of toppings ranging from spring onions to corn to pumpkin. When done, the two semi-spherical shapes unite to form a full circle of creamy goodness.
Tracing its origins back to the Ayutthaya period, Khanom Khrok's history is as rich as its taste. The dessert, composed of two layers – one savoury and one sweet – comes to life on a heated mantle, the indented frying pan symbolic of its heritage. The traditional process involves a batter concocted from rice soaked in water and milled with thin coconut milk, cooked rice, and shredded coconut. Variations, especially in royal Thai kitchens, introduced diverse toppings like corn, scallions and shrimp.
An Immersive Experience
To truly savour the authenticity of Khanom Khrok, one should embark on the Plough To Plate: A Rice Journey experience hosted by Feast Thailand. On this experience, guests partake in crafting traditional (Boran) Khanom Khrok from scratch. This immersive experience involves soaking dehusked rice, grinding it, grating fresh coconut and making coconut cream (the first pressing) and coconut milk (subsequent pressings). In this setting, the modern world takes a back seat, with the cast iron skillet heated over charcoal, infusing a smoky nuance to the snack. As opposed to the overt sweetness from market versions using canned coconut milk, this handcrafted dessert, resonating with genuine flavours, guarantees a gastronomic journey back in time.
The full Plough To Plate experience involves an up-close-and-personal encounter with the two working Krabue Buffalo on the farm as the farmer ploughs his field; planting rice wearing traditional farmer's clothing; dehusking the harvested rice using the 3 methods described above; making and sampling Khanom Khrok; sampling rice tea, rice wine and crispy rice wafers; cooking rice the traditional way over charcoal and learning an innovative way to remove any remaining water; enjoy a traditional farmer's lunch. This entire experience is a fully immersive way to understand the importance of this tiny grain to the Kingdom of Thailand.